Details – A bit more on installation

Fitting your reclaimed floor:

The time lapse below is us laying an Opepe floor. You can see details of our parquet available for sale here. To give you an idea of the time involved it was laid in 3 days by 2 of the Parquet Parquet team, with 2 more people cleaning the blocks.

 

Details on floor installation:

  • Sub-floor preparation is key if you want to install reclaimed parquet successfully. Parquet can be laid onto a screed or concrete floor however the sub-floor moisture-content should be checked. The screed must be properly dry or as a consequence there will not be good adhesion. Alternatively, parquet can also be laid on a stable sheet material such as flooring-grade chipboard.

Please note: the professional adhesives work only with non-waterproofed sheet materials. In addition, you will need to use a primer. Check with your adhesive supplier for specifications or you can take a look at our recommended adhesive.

Acclimatisation and stacking:

  • Your reclaimed parquet should be acclimatised in the area in which it is going to be laid. Preferably for at least 2 weeks prior to laying. All wet trades should have been completed before the blocks are delivered. In addition, any plaster, screed etc. must be properly dry.
  • The blocks should be stacked in piles ‘jenga style’ around the area. As a result this allows the air to flow all round the blocks evenly. Use a moisture meter to test levels.

Preparation:

  • The blocks will need scraping along the sides and ends, in order to fit neatly. Therefore creating an even pattern across the floor. Large, obvious lumps of screed or bitumen will need to be scraped off. Generally we do not recommend removing all of the bitumen off the underside of the blocks because the specialist adhesives available are compatible and consequently will bond to the blocks.

Setting out:

  • For all patterns, you will need to establish a central line. Use a string line and allow for a block to sit underneath. The central line is where you lay the spine (first course which runs down the central length of the room).
  • At the edge of the room mark out 2 blocks width plus a 12mm expansion gap running parallel with the room. Do this all the way round the edges. This will therefore give you space for your border blocks. This edge should be marked with a continuous pencil line. The expansion gap must not be filled, because it allows for the natural expansion and contraction of timber. And finally the skirting boards will  cloak the gap.

Laying the blocks:

  • It is advisable to lay one half first then go to the second half, remembering not to glue beyond the pencil line for the border. The herringbone pattern will go over the line, however any part of the block which does, shouldn’t be glued because it will need to be cut off. Sometimes you need to infill small pieces carefully as these sort of details will show up at the end if not done well.
  • The finished pattern must be a nice tight fit. Do remember as you are laying, large gaps can throw the pattern out. There is generally a tolerance of a couple of millimetres. Use a base-fill product for small gaps. This will therefore give a good finish. However it is very popular now to leave the gaps for a more natural look. The choice is yours.

Then you start to sand!

 

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Details